Tourist day: Santiago

I woke up to a pea soup fog over the city, a big contrast to yesterday's sunshine, although by mid-morning it was a scorcher

My accommodation wasn't a peregrinos-only albergue, rather it was closer to a backpackers' hostel. There was a mix of peregrinos who had finished their pilgrimage, and backpackers who wanted to party all night and needed a place to crash for a few hours. Anyway, I still managed to get a good sleep, although I might have been an exception in that respect

First destination of the day was the cathedral and plaza, but there was quite a walk back down to it...

Then into the cathedral itself - they'd gone all out to magnificentise this one...

And I did get to embrace St James from behind the alter (no photos allowed) - amazing that they let people do that really

Down to the pilgrims' office to get a Finisterre Camino passport. Many albergues are for pilgrims only, so the passport is definitely needed for my accommodation for the next few days

Back to the cathedral, this time a paid entry to see the restored Portico of Glory, built in the 12th century, and originally the main point of entry to the cathedral. Quite incredible detail, which I can't show you since photos and videos were not allowed

Photos and videos were also not allowed inside at the cathedral museum, so maybe I'll have to keep the glossy brochures. Sculptures, tapestries, paintings, priestly garments, musical instruments and old sheet music

An outdoor walkway on one of the museum floors did give a good view of the pilgrims arriving in the plaza

I chose not to do the roof tour, but the cloisters(?) were cool. The entire area was covered with netting, presumably to keep the birds off

I joined the queue of hundreds to get back into the cathedral for the noon mass. I was lucky enough to get in, although they had long run out of seats - standing room only, which wasn't great on my poor peregrino feet

But, was it worth it? Absolutely - at the end they swung the Botafumeiro, arguably the world's largest thurible, also known as a censer. What is a thurible (or censer!), you may well ask. A thurible is a metal container filled with burning incense and hanging from chains allowing a priest to swing it. This spreads smelly (fragrant) smoke all around, that symbolises prayers rising to heaven and the purification of the space. And in this case disguises the rancidity of hundreds of smelly peregrinos

Anyway, this particular Botafumeiro is huge, weighing 53kg and standing 1.5m high, taking eight priests on the end of a long rope to swing it. Suspended 20m in the air, when swinging it reaches speeds of about 70km/h. And I have to say, in real life it is a sight to behold, soaring way above the crowd. Apparently it has come loose from its chains in the past, although only(!) twice. Now that WOULD be a sight to behold

I spent the next while wandering the streets near the cathedral. Some shops and some commercial buildings, but mostly cafés

I settled for a tiramisu ice cream!